Contractors - What to Scrutinize and Why

With the approach of winter, this is the time to hire a contractor for any painting or carpentry jobs that you might want to have done before the next rental season. As you probably know, it can be difficult to get estimates in the spring on the Outer Banks, since most reputable contractors will be booked.

Do yourself a favor and take the time to scrutinize the companies that you invite to bid on your work. Not all companies can competently estimate the work they perform. It may not seem that a low-ball price should be of concern to you, but that is usually far from true. What happens when the contractor figures out he’s blown the budget…or if he runs out of money?  Often this results in the contractor cutting corners (proper prep work is usually the first thing to go) and you may end up with a paint job or repair that only lasts long enough for him to cash your check.

Many residential contractors don’t have the knowledge, skill, or time to accurately measure and apply production rates, so it’s no surprise that they are simply guessing rather than estimating their jobs. In some cases, that guess may be an educated one, but it is still just a guess.  If you have ever hired a contractor, you know that the estimates can vary wildly in scope and price.

To estimate properly, a contractor must first measure all components of the work and apply the proper production and material spread rates. While this isn't very complicated, it does require plenty of time to accumulate the necessary data to establish these rates. For many small business owners, this simply never happens. Often they are too occupied working for the business rather than working on the business.

Look for professionalism in any contractor proposing to work on your home. It’s usually easy to spot. A contractor either has it, or he doesn't. When evaluating a proposal, look for the following:

1. Is the proposal articulate? If the contractor can't explain the scope of work or the proposed materials and methods, will he be able to effectively manage the work?
2. Does the contractor have insurance? Even the best contractors have occasional mishaps, but how these mishaps are handled is what separates the good from the bad from the ugly.
3. Longevity. Will the contractor still be in business if you have a warranty claim?
4. Trade organizations and references. If the contractor is a member of the local Homebuilders' Association or Chamber of Commerce, then he is likely serious about his business and has references you can contact. Your painting contractor should also be a member in good standing with the Painting and Decorating Contractors of America (PDCA). You can access a list of PDCA members in your area or call 1-800-paint-job.

The best price isn't always the best deal - especially if you have to call a professional to finish a job when the original contractor won't return your phone calls or has gone out of business. It will cost you more in the long run and the contractor who finishes the work will not be able to warrant anything done by the previous contractor.   

Fall Maintenance - 2015

Fall is my favorite season on the Outer Banks. The traffic hassles caused by the tourists are over, the beaches are serene, and we start getting back to our normal pace of work at Beach Painting. One can't help but feel thankful for the abundant natural beauty that surrounds us.

It seems distant, but Winter is coming. Freezing temperatures and snow are usually short-lived here; nonetheless, diligent homeowners should be mindful of the following maintenance items:

 

Address Peeling Paint
Peeling is a sign of paint or substrate failure. Once the paint film has failed it can no longer protect your siding. Peeling paint should be removed by scraping and sanding as soon as it becomes visible.

Photo: Address peeling paint as soon as possible.

The bare surface should then be primed and fresh paint applied. If left alone, exposed siding will be susceptible to premature deterioration and rot. If your house is due for a repaint, Fall weather conditions are ideal for exterior painting on the OBX.

  

Replace Failing Caulk
Caulk helps to keep the heat in your home and the moisture out. If your caulk is cracked or failing, it should be completely removed at the point of failure and new caulk should be applied.

Protect Your Decks

On the Outer Banks, we have periods of extended precipitation and occasionally we experience freezing temperatures. Moisture, combined with freezing and thawing, can wreak havoc on your decks. Consider having them sealed in the Fall. This will reduce cracking and splitting and extend the life of your decks.

Check For Visible Signs of Rot

Photo: Extensive rot can take weeks or months to repair.

Water penetration leads to excessive moisture and inevitably causes wood rot. It can also create an ideal habitat for termites and ants. If you see signs of damage on your corner trim or door/window trim, it warrants further investigation.

 

Extensive rot can take weeks or even months to fully repair. You don't want to address the problem in the Spring when most reputable contractors will already have a full schedule. This could put your rental season in jeopardy.

 

 

Power Washing

Photo: Power washing can reveal potential problems.

Power washing not only cleans your house and decks, but it can also reveal failed caulking, peeling paint, cracked deck boards and dry rot.

Other Items

Gutters, chimneys and roof shingles should be checked before winter. It's also advisable to test and replace the batteries in your home's smoke and CO detectors as well.

Fall is an ideal time to trim dead branches from your trees and aerate/seed your lawn. It's also a good time to remove your annual plants and divide and move your perennials as necessary.

This time of year is very busy for us at Beach Painting. Don't wait too long to schedule your maintenance painting and carpentry repairs. This is also a great time to schedule any interior painting and drywall repairs that can be done now or during Winter.

 
Give us a call at 800.663.4944 to request an estimate or visit our website to learn more about Beach Painting.

Paint Problems - Blistering

If bubbles begin to form in localized areas on your painted exterior surface after drying, this is known as blistering. The paint film may lift from the substrate in several small areas. 

photo: paint blisters

There are several possible causes for blistering. If a surface is hot and painted in direct sunlight, the paint may not completely adhere. The application of an oil-based paint on a wet surface will produce similar results. If you’ve used a latex paint, and the surface is exposed to high humidity, dew, or rain shortly after the paint has dried, this can cause blistering…especially if the surface was not adequately prepped (see my post on preparation).

 

A less common cause of blistering is moisture escaping through your exterior walls. Oil-based paints are more prone to this than are latex paints.

If the blisters settle and go back down to the substrate, try to remove the source of the moisture. Check your exterior caulking to make sure that is not the source of water infiltration. Also check your flashing.

If the blistering continues, the problem may be moisture escaping through your walls.  You may want to consider installing exhaust fans/vents if the blistering has occurred on a gable, though the solution could be as simple as adjusting the humidity on your thermostat (especially during winter months).

After addressing the source of the moisture, you may find that the blisters will go down and adhere to the substrate...your chances are better if you used a latex paint. If the blisters do not adhere, you’ll want to scrape and sand the areas, then prime and repaint with a quality exterior paint.

 

If your paint has blistered and you cannot determine the cause, call us today for a free consultation. We'll be glad to look at the problem and advise you regarding the proper course of action.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beach Painting Contractors

info@beachpainting.com

 

Paint Problems - Mildew

Paint Problems - Mildew

 

 

photo: mildew on cedar shakes

On the Outer Banks, mildew is simply a fact of life. Heavily wooded areas (such as Southern Shores or Kitty Hawk) block the sunlight and the frequently damp air creates a perfect environment for mildew.

Mildew is actually fungal growth (usually black or gray). Walls with northern exposure and the underside of eaves are particularly prone to mildew.

Other causes of mildew include the use of low quality paint, failure to prime bare wood before painting, painting over a substrate on which mildew has not been removed, and applying paint in a very thin coat.

At Beach Painting, we use the highest quality paints available (all of which are mildew resistant). We spot prime bare wood before painting. We always chemically treat and wash substrates before applying paint and we apply the paint to achieve the highest possible dry film thickness.

If you encounter mildew, you can test by applying a few drops of household bleach to the area and then rinsing. If the discoloration disappears, it is probably mildew. It can be removed by taking a scrub brush and a diluted bleach solution (three parts water, one part bleach) to the area. Always wear rubber gloves and eye protection when doing this. Rinse the area thoroughly and apply primer to any bare wood before touching up with a high quality exterior paint.

The best overall solution is to incorporate the power washing of your home's exterior into your annual Fall or Spring maintenance. Call us today for a free estimate!

  

Prime Considerations

Selecting the Right Primer

 

If you’ve decided to tackle a painting project and you go to your local paint store, you may be surprised to learn how many different primers are available. A primer is used under a finish coat to provide adhesion to the substrate and seal any stains that may come through the finish coat. This is a crucial step in the painting process. 

           


Photo: Courtesy of Sherwin Williams

If you are painting pressure-treated bare wood outside, your best bet is an exterior acrylic primer. Since these are water-based, they dry quickly and clean up easily with soap and water. Most often used on hand rails and deck bands, this type of wood is the most difficult to keep paint on because it is smooth and impregnated with chemical preservatives. If the wood is not kiln dried after the chemical treatment, you should not paint for at least six months.

Acrylic primer is recommended for siding products. Some siding (LP “Smart Side,” for example) are already factory-primed, which allows you to paint directly without a dedicated primer.   

Cedar requires a product that will block the tannins from coming through the finish paint and a good slow drying oil is best for this. Cedar is used primarily because of the high tannin content, which allows the wood to last longer than most others. The tannins are oils in the wood that will eventually seep through most acrylics leaving a stain. Most wood siding on the Outer Banks is cedar, either shakes or lap siding and is subject to this leaching. The tannin blocking oil products generally take up to 48 hours to dry and clean up with mineral spirits.  

If you have rusty screws or nails, you will need a rust-inhibiting primer. All rust scale should be removed before priming. The idea is to build up a high mil thickness to block the stain from coming through. Once the  nail begins to rust inside the wood, the rust will continue to leach out and, unfortunately, become a matter of routine annual maintenance...as any painting contractor on the OBX will tell you.

Interior primers are used for everything from new drywall to wood trim to hiding water stains. For new smooth drywall, latex “surfacing primers” are best. These products are thick and meant to be sanded before the final coats are applied. The application amounts to a skim coat of drywall and is very effective in hiding seams, which are frequently noticeably after the drywall has been finished.

On textured drywall surfaces, inexpensive latex primers can be used as an alternative to the pricier flat latex finishes. There is no need for a thicker surfacing product. These primers are also good for drywall repair areas. If your finish is eggshell, satin, or semi-gloss, primer is essential to ensure that a flat spot is not evident when the areas is touched up or repainted.

If you have experienced a water leak, an interior stain blocking oil product will be required. These products typically dry fast and may require multiple coats to completely block the stain effectively.

           

If you intend to paint wood paneling, cabinets, or trim, you will need to use an oil primer that both blocks stains and sticks to glossy surfaces. The surface should be lightly sanded with 220-grit sandpaper before priming to ensure that the primer has a good bite. Most often, primers for glossy surfaces dry quickly and clean up with mineral spirits or alcohol.

 

Whatever your situation, your local paint dealer should have a recommended system of primer and finish to fit the need. Depending on your finish colors, your paint store may even recommend tinting the primer to allow for better coverage on your finish coat. Make sure to describe the project completely and remember to select a good grade of product for maximum longevity.

www.beachpainting.com

Paint Problems: Alligatoring

Alligatoring

If you see a pattern of cracking in your paint that resembles the scales of an alligator, this is what we in the painting business call…you guessed it “alligatoring.”

 

With recent advances in technology and the widespread use of latex paints, alligatoring is not as common as it was in the past.
 

Alligatoring is usually caused by the natural aging of oil based paints from temperature fluctuation. The constant expansion and contractor result in the loss of paint film elasticity. There are other causes as well. If a hard coating is applied over a softer (and more elastic) coating, the top coat can crack over time. That’s why it’s not recommended to apply an oil paint over a latex paint. Application of a topcoat while the primer or basecoat is still wet can also produce this effect.

OK, so how do I fix this problem?
 

Unfortunately, you need to remove the old paint. This usually involved scraping, sanding, and the use of a heat gun. You’ll want to take every possible precaution if you have reasonable suspicion that the paint contains lead. At a minimum, you’ll want a respirator.

After removing the old paint, you’ll need to clean the surface. If a glossy surface remains, it must be sanded dull.

Painting - Preparation is the Key

Benjamin Franklin once said, "By failing to prepare, you are preparing to fail." While this is applicable to many aspects of life, it is particularly apropos to our philosophy at Beach Painting Contractors. More often than not, poor preparation leads to a significantly shorter lifespan when it comes to repainting your house. Conversely, diligent preparation can extend the life of your paint job.

 

To protect your home, your painting contractor needs to account for the following:

1. Cleaning: Paint will not adhere to a dirty surface. It is imperative that a house be chemically treated to kill mildew and power washed to remove dirt and peeling paint.
2. Scraping/Sanding: After sufficient drying time, any remaining peeling paint needs to be addressed by scraping. If not, the original paint will continue to peel after the new paint is applied. It is also critical to "feather" sand the rough edges where paint has been removed to diminish the chances of further peeling.
3. Repairing Surface Flaws: Cracks and dings in your siding should be repaired with exterior spackle, caulk, or wood putty to prevent further deterioration and improve overall appearance.
4. Caulking: This is a critical step in preventing moisture infiltration. Any caulk that is cracked or separating from the surface must be removed. A high grade exterior acrylic latex or elastomeric caulk must be applied to these areas. Special attention should be applied at all window, door, and corner trim.
5. Rust Treatment: Rusty fasteners should be treated with a rust-inhibiting primer after removing loose rust scale.
6. Spot Priming: all bare wood should be primed with an exterior stain-blocking primer. All rust primer and repair areas should also be spot-primed before painting.
7. Wrapping: landscaping should be covered with drop cloths or plastic. Air conditioning units, decks, and any unpainted surfaces should also be covered with drop cloths. Window and door openings should be covered with plastic prior to spraying. Cardboard shields are typically used along the roof line when painting fascia boards.

One major distinction between a reputable painting contractor and a less-than-reputable one is the amount of preparation that is included in a painting proposal. My experience is that 40-50% of the labor required in an exterior painting project is the prep work described above. If the house exterior hasn't been routinely maintained, the percentage of prep work will be higher.  

 

If you are collecting quotes for a project and find one of your bidders is significantly less than the others, one reason may be that he has not included the prep work required for a quality paint job. All too often, this leads to paint failure within 2-3 years.

The old adage that we get what we pay for rings true, especially when it comes to painting preparation.

 

Give us a call at 800.663.4944 to request an estimate or visit our website to learn more about Beach Painting.

When Is It Time To Replace My Siding?

Americans have clad their homes with siding since colonial times. Siding affects the appearance of your home as well as the energy efficiency. It’s one of the most important architectural systems on your home. 

So, how do I know when it’s time to replace my siding?

Most types of siding are durable and should last a long time, but if you see evidence of fungus and wood rot, separated seams, warped or split boards, missing shakes, or you find yourself painting the exterior of your home every three to four years…it could be time to replace your siding.

What types of siding are available?

Wood siding was really the only option available until the 1920’s. Asbestos siding and asphalt siding became popular alternatives to wood until the advent of aluminum and steel siding in the 1940’s. These systems all had drawbacks and eventually fell out of favor with homeowners.

Vinyl siding and fiber cement board first became available in the 1950’s and gained immense popularity in the decades that followed. Significant technological improvements have made these systems the most commonly used siding in new construction. Composite (or engineered) wood siding has also become popular in recent decades.

Which type of siding is best for me?

Every siding system has advantages and drawbacks. It’s important to realize the installation and maintenance costs before you commit.

Wood

In my opinion cedar siding looks the best. Whether you install clapboards, panels, or shakes, you will need to protect the wood from the elements and from insects. You’ll likely have to repaint the cedar every 4-5 years. If you choose to go with a more natural look (i.e. clear sealer or semi-transparent stain) you’ll still need recoat the surface according to the severity of the environment you live in. If properly maintained, wood siding (cedar, pine, spruce) should last at least 20 years.

Vinyl

Vinyl siding is the least expensive to install. It doesn’t peel or corrode, which makes it very popular. Most vinyl siding manufacturers also offer insulated panels, making them a good choice to the energy-efficient homeowner.

However, vinyl siding is less aesthetically pleasing than other types of siding, and its color will fade over time. Even if installed properly, it doesn’t seem to hold up well on the OBX.

Fiber Cement Board (Hardie Plank)

Fiber cement board is relatively low maintenance and looks nicer than vinyl siding. It’s available in a number of profiles. From a distance it looks like wood. It’s fire resistant and is not prone to insect damage.

It doesn’t require painting as often as wood, but the boards are heavier, which means they come in shorter lengths and are more difficult to install. Over time, fiber cement boards have a tendency to crack. They also have a tendency to wick up water if installed adjacent to a driveway or deck where water can pool.

Composite or Engineered Wood

Composite wood siding is made with wood fibers/chips and epoxy resin. It is impervious to moisture and insect damage. It looks nicer than vinyl siding. It’s also much easier to install and less expensive than fiber cement boards. It appears to be the most durable siding option available today and has become increasingly popular on the OBX over the last few years.

Installation practices

Regardless of which siding system you choose, the siding must be properly installed. After removing your old siding, your contractor should check everything visible before installing the new siding. Plywood sheathing should be checked for rot and insect damage.

In most cases, house wrap should be replaced. We prefer to use 30-lb asphalt felt paper rather than polypropylene fiber. It is more durable and has no chemically adverse reactions to different types of wood or metal.

Flashing should also be inspected. During the building boom on the OBX, there were a lot of slipshod construction practices. Step flashing and Z flashing were often times improperly installed and sometimes omitted completely. This is a huge factor in the amount of wood rot we are now finding all over the OBX. The correct type of flashing with compatible fasteners and back caulk is a crucial step. Any roof lines that terminate into the siding MUST be properly flashed, as well as all sills, decks, and decorative trim pieces (i.e. “beauty bands”).

Windows should also be sealed with window tape prior to installing the siding. It’s an inexpensive step that is often overlooked. The house will also need to be caulked at every joint and every trim piece. A high-performance exterior acrylic latex caulk will outlast most paint jobs.  Cheaper latex caulks are less resistant to UV exposure and will yellow and crack.

As with anything in life, you get what you pay for. Take your time and do your homework before committing to a major home improvement project. Don’t hesitate to ask questions. We are more than happy to give a free estimate and consultation on your siding replacement. Find out why Beach Painting Contractors is becoming the preferred siding contractor on the OBX. 
 

800.663.4944

www.beachpainting.com

info@beachpainting.com


Serving the OBX Since 1995

 

Choosing the Right Paint Sheen

When it’s time to paint, color is often the first consideration of many homeowners, but selecting the right sheen has important aesthetic and functional ramifications.

What is Sheen?

Sheen refers to the smoothness and the amount of light reflected by a coating. Technically speaking, it is largely influenced by the ratio of paint-resin (binder) to pigment. The more binder a coating contains, the smoother the surface and the more light reflectance. Conversely, less binder leads to a rougher surface and less light reflectance. A high-gloss paint has relatively more binder than a flat paint.

From an aesthetic standpoint, paint sheen can either add or detract from the visual characteristics of the painted item. From a durability standpoint, selecting the right sheen for the job can extend the life of the paint job.

Flat

A flat sheen is more porous and reflects less light. Because it reflects less light it is better at hiding imperfections in drywall. On the other hand, less binder means less durability. It will scuff more easily than a higher gloss paint, though it touches up nicely. It is a popular choice for bedrooms, dining rooms, and living rooms.

Eggshell

Eggshell offers slightly less reflectance than satin, but is more durable than flat. It is an ideal choice for walls in high traffic areas.   

Satin

Satin sheen has a slightly higher reflectance value than eggshell. It provides an elegant appeal with the right light/color combinations and is more durable than flat paint. Typically, it will be used on walls (or trim) in high traffic areas.

Photo: trim is often painted with a higher sheen than the adjacent wall/ceiling surfaces

Semi-Gloss

Semi-gloss offers good stain resistance and is easy to clean. Because of its light reflectance properties, it is popular for millwork and trim. Because of its durability it is often used in bathrooms and kitchens.

Gloss

Gloss is the toughest and most reflective. It is ideal for cabinets, millwork, and trim. However, it tends to draw attention to imperfections.

Mixing Sheens

Most paint products offer three or four levels of sheen which will allow you or your painting contractor to create the perfect look for your room or for the exterior of your house. If a particular manufacturer’s sheen options don’t work perfectly for you, you can always mix two different sheens to get an in-between finish. When touching up a blemish, you can also reduce the sheen by thinning the paint.   

Wood Rot - What Every Homeowner Should Know

Photo: Advanced Structural Rot

There are two words that strike fear into any homeowner - "wood rot." On the Outer Banks it's a problem we deal with every day. Usually, by the time we find wood rot on a house, it has reached a stage where it is completely pervasive. This leads to high unexpected costs for the homeowner.

What Causes Wood Rot?
The main cause of wood rot is water. If water gets into cracks or beneath your siding and doesn't dry out, it creates a perfect environment for certain wood-decaying fungi. Once the rot takes hold, it spreads rapidly. If left alone it will eventually lead to major structural damage.

But that's not all. The dampness becomes an open invitation for termites and carpenter ants to inflict further damage. The bottom line is this: your house has a lot of wood - siding, plywood sheathing, trim, and framing - so there is a lot to protect.

Photo: Rot Discovery at House Trim

How Do I Identify Wood Rot?
Any place where two pieces of wood come together is a potential place for water infiltration. Excessive paint peeling on house trim, window trim, butt joints in siding, fascia, or near roof lines may indicate water infiltration. Stained or peeling siding directly above or below your deck may also be an indicator. Interior drywall staining near windows, doors, or where your ceiling meets an exterior wall may also be a sign of rot.

Take a screwdriver and gently probe the wood. If your screwdriver goes through the wood, you have rot. You'll want to call a rot repair specialist to examine further.

Beach Painting Contractors will typically begin by probing further and removing trim or siding that has rot. We then inspect the plywood sheathing at these locations to determine if the rot has spread. If the rot appears to be widespread, we develop an action plan for the homeowner.

How Do I Prevent Wood Rot?
First of all, homes should be inspected annually for signs of wood rot. This is especially critical in extremely harsh environments like the Outer Banks. A full-service painting and construction contractor can do this for you. As part of a maintenance agreement with Beach Painting Contractors, we offer power washing and inspection of your siding, trim, roof, and caulking. Nearly one third of our annual revenue comes from our construction division (which specializes in rot repair). We know what to look for.

Consider installing seamless gutters on your house. Seamless gutters are not prone to leaking (thereby causing damage to fascia and soffits). You'll want to make sure that your gutters remain clear of debris.

Photo: Advanced Rot and Insect Damage

Roof and deck flashing are critical. If flashing is installed incorrectly (or not installed at all) water will flow directly behind your siding. Typically, flashing can be installed easily with minimum removal of siding and roof shingles.

Look for failed caulking. This is a primary line of defense against water penetration. Cracked or deteriorated caulk should be removed and replaced with a high quality acrylic latex exterior caulk.

Address your peeling paint. If your trim or siding have peeling paint, you'll need to scrape, apply primer, and re-paint the area that is peeling. As mentioned above, you'll want to probe any wood that is peeling.

Maintain and trim your trees and shrubbery. Any limbs touching your house can provide a conduit for water infiltration.

If you suspect you have wood rot, call us today! We'll perform a visual inspection and provide a free consultation.

Painters and Rot Repair Specialists

 

252.441.8224

www.beachpainting.com

info@beachpainting.com

 

Hot Decor Colors

Food for thought if you're thinking about a color change.

Hot decor colors range from pastels to deep, saturated hues

Article from Daytona Beach News Journal - April 1, 2015
via the Painting and Decorating Contractors of America (PDCA)



These walls are painted in Hubbard Squash and Coral Reef, the latter of which is Sherwin-Williams’ color of the year. Lighthearted yet sophisticated, it has a tropical vibe.
Associated Press/Sherwin-Williams

By KIM COOK
Associated Press   

Published: Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 2:34 p.m.

Page 1 of 3

For 2015, the hot colors in home decor range from yummy ice cream pastels to a few deep, saturated hues.

The pastels include blush, sky blue, vanilla, lilac and pale peach, hues traditionally associated with tropical or desert climes.

 

Mint and shell pink might seem lightweight or juvenile at first glance, but the way they’re being used gives them some gravitas. A task lamp; a midcentury-style chair; a bookcase — rendered in one of these hues, a room instantly looks Right Now. Mints to consider include Behr’s Mountain Mint and Pratt and Lambert’s Glacial Green; check out Pratt and Lambert’s Coral Pink and Behr’s Secret Blush for a gentle yet sophisticated soft pink.

 

Each year, paint companies and color trend gurus assess which hues will be hot in fashion and decor. Many choose a “color of the year.”

 

Coral Reef, a vibrant pink-orange, is Sherwin-Williams’ pick. Debra Kling, a New York-based color consultant, thinks it’s a region-specific hue.

 

“It feels more suitable for South Beach, the Southwest or the South Pacific,” she says.

Jackie Jordan, color marketing director for Sherwin-Williams, says the color embodies a cheerful approach to design that’s a hallmark of 2015. “From our research, we know people do seek colors and decor that bring back memories of a destination vacation,” she says. “Coral Reef evokes that for people; others just love the color.”

 

She suggests pairing it with white, black or floral hues like lush green or deep violet to make it really sing. To calm things down, consider complementary shades of soft gray, driftwood or butter yellow. Patinated brass and medium wood tones would also be pretty accompaniments.

 

Benjamin Moore has gone with Guilford Green, a soft hue that some decorators and designers see as too pale while others tout its versatility as a “standard, go-to green.”

 

Framed with crisp white, Guilford Green gives off a pretty, garden-room vibe; add deeper floral tones like peony, daffodil and iris to enhance the botanical feel. Undertones of gray and brown make it a perfect color against just about any wood, creating a restful backdrop for a kitchen, nursery or sunroom, and it’s a good exterior hue, too. Check out Farrow & Ball’s Breakfast Room Green, a similar shade.

 

Blues will also be strong this spring in decorative elements and room color, evoking locations as diverse as the South Pacific and the Pacific Northwest. There’s global influence with indigos, while the navies have a preppy complexion. Behr’s Solitude and Vintage Velvet, and Benjamin Moore’s Blue Danube and Harbor Fog are all attractive. Glidden’s top color for 2015 is a beachy, intense Caribbean Blue.

 

Another blue getting buzz is Pittsburgh Paint’s color of the year, Blue Paisley. Some designers think it’s pretty but not especially “new,” since it’s been punctuating the popular gray palette for a couple of years now. Nonetheless, it’s a color with legs. You’ll see it and a deeper teal in accessories and textiles, and as accents on smaller furniture pieces. It can lend a midcentury aesthetic to trim upholstery and woods like pecan and walnut that speak to retro style but also reference classic taste.

Color giant Pantone has deemed Marsala its color of the year. New York designer Elaine Griffin is delighted: “I think it’s a winner. Red is a color that we haven’t seen in a while. In this interpretation as a deep-ish wine hue, it’s both fresh-looking and sophisticated, and pairs stylishly with the new neutrals of gray, smoky teal and black.”

 

Kling said some colors have a mysterious quality “one can’t quite identify — and Marsala is one of them. It draws us in. Not quite brown and not quite burgundy, Marsala lends sophistication and warmth.”

 

She says it’s well-suited to textures, and as a saturated hue it’s something special; she just did a velvet chaise for a client in Marsala velvet.

 

While it’s already emerging in some furnishings, appliances and cabinetry, Marsala will likely turn up in much more from retailers come fall; it projects coziness, warmth and luxury.

 

Watch in the fall, too, for olive green, deep teal, burnt orange and mustard, all punctuating midcentury modern style. Fruity acid versions of lemon, lime and grape will nod to mod, ’70s-era decor.

 

Pratt & Lambert’s color of the year is Noir, a bold, inky blue-black. Kling calls it sultry and forbidding. A tray ceiling in a master bedroom, painted like a night sky, comes to mind.

“I can imagine a lacquered Noir library, dining room or other cozy space used primarily at nighttime,” she says.

 

Griffin loves the bold choice. “Black and deep navy were once seen as the most theatrical colors, the exclusive domains of the uber-stylish and certainly not for the faint of heart,” she says. “But 2015 officially heralds their establishment as neutrals.”

Ready For Spring?

The spring season is upon us again. Thoughts turn to warmer weather, longer days, and "spring cleaning." If you own rental property on the Outer Banks it's time to prepare for the upcoming tourist season.

It may seem a bit early to worry at this point, but if you have any medium to large projects on the agenda, you don't want to wait any longer. We've been dealing with a labor shortage on the Outer Banks for years (caused mainly by a lack of affordable housing).

If you wait until April to schedule your work, you will find it very difficult to have the work done by a competent contractor. The best painting and construction contractors are filling up their schedules and adding new jobs daily. At Beach Painting, we will typically bid about 500 jobs from February to June.

As the spring projects begin to reach a frenzied pace, it's worthwhile to consider a full-service contractor who can take care of your power washing, painting, drywall, and carpentry needs. If you have siding and deck repairs or you suspect you have any amount of wood rot, you definitely don't want to become a scheduler, coordinator, and project manager in your spare time!

That's where we can help. Beach Painting is not only a reputable painting contractor, but we have full-time carpentry crews as well. We can take care of most rot repair and siding projects quickly and efficiently, but we also have a full network of specialty subcontractors as well (roofing, flooring, electrical, and mechanical). We can manage other trades around our work and make life easier for you.

Call us today! 1.800.663.4944 or visit us on the web.

Interior Design and Paint Color Advice

When it comes to decorating or redecorating a room, choosing the right paint color can sometimes present a challenge. The following tips may help.  

 

Exercise Patience
It's always a good idea to collect paint chips and samples when planning a room, but hold off making final choices until you've developed an overall room scheme. Paint is available myriad colors, tints, shades, and tones. It’s the easiest element to change in a room, and the least expensive.  After area rugs, window treatments, and furniture are finalized, make your decision on paint color.

 

Photo: Sherwin Williams Concepts in Color

A Tried and True Formula for Color Selection
If you're working with a print fabric, you'll probably be happier if you select the coordinating wall paint color from the background of the print. Use the deeper or brighter tones for accents throughout the room or adjacent spaces. More often than not, you'll select a shade of white or off-white for the moldings, baseboards, and trim. 

 

Choose the Right Sheen for the Job
Consider which sheen might be best for your project. Flat sheens hide wall imperfections while satin, eggshell, and glossier sheens will reflect more light. Be cognizant of how much natural and/or incandescent light is in the room. Also be aware that while a flat sheen is great at hiding the imperfections of your drywall, it is also the least durable.



Photo: Example of cool color with warm accent colors

Color “Temperature”
Colors are often referred to as "warm" or "cool." Oranges, reds, and pinks are considered warm colors. "Cool" is ascribed to blues, greens and violets. Similarly, winter sunlight and fluorescent lighting are considered cool while summer sunlight and incandescent lighting are warm. Knowing the theory behind color can help you select the right tone for the ambience you're trying to achieve. See my blog post from last October to learn more about light reflectance value and the impacts of natural vs. artificial light. Understanding how the human eye perceives color can go a long way in guiding your decisions.   

 

Photo: Example of warm color

Custom Colors
If you want to achieve a perfect match or find a truly unique color, your local paint store can provide custom color mixing. You can bring in a fabric swatch, painting, or other color reference, and have a paint color created as a perfect match. It’s truly as simple as a quick scan and a computer-generated formula.

 

Give it a Test Run
When you think that you've really chosen your perfect color, buy a pint of paint to do a test patch. Most paint stores will even provide you with a free sample. Paint a 2-ft to 4-ft square directly on your wall. Look at it during the day and during the evening. See how the color appears at sunrise and sunset. If it just doesn’t look right, don't get discouraged. Get another sample and try again. Sometimes I’ll apply two or three test colors before making a final decision. 


Cross Contamination
After you have a painted wall sample, scrutinize the color you're testing and whether it is adversely impacted by other colors in a room. Again, understanding color theory and how the human eye perceives color will be a helpful. Depending on the amount of light, the type of lighting, the light reflectance value (LRV) of the paint, your test color may get completely “washed out” by the other colors in the room. It may even appear to be a completely different color at different times of the day.  


Call Us - We Can Help!
For helpful paint advice, contact your full-service painting contractor. Tell him about your project and what you hope to achieve. Ask which paint products are recommended for various applications and why. A painting professional will be more than happy to share the information (as well as his opinion!). Ask about specialty paints such as low-odor/low-V.O.C, stain-killing primers, washable paint, and more.

 

Give It Time
Wet paint always looks different from dry paint. Don't panic when you first see the paint applied to the wall. Let it dry. A new bold color may take some time to grow on you. After your furniture, area rugs, and wall treatments are put back in place, you may find yourself pleasantly surprised to see how well your new color harmonizes with these elements.

 

Contact us today to see what we can do for you!

 

1496 Colington Rd.
Kill Devil Hills, NC 27948
800.663.4944 / 252.441.8224 
252.449.8729 Fax

www.beachpainting.com

info@beachpainting.com