Paint Problems - Blistering

If bubbles begin to form in localized areas on your painted exterior surface after drying, this is known as blistering. The paint film may lift from the substrate in several small areas. 

photo: paint blisters

There are several possible causes for blistering. If a surface is hot and painted in direct sunlight, the paint may not completely adhere. The application of an oil-based paint on a wet surface will produce similar results. If you’ve used a latex paint, and the surface is exposed to high humidity, dew, or rain shortly after the paint has dried, this can cause blistering…especially if the surface was not adequately prepped (see my post on preparation).

 

A less common cause of blistering is moisture escaping through your exterior walls. Oil-based paints are more prone to this than are latex paints.

If the blisters settle and go back down to the substrate, try to remove the source of the moisture. Check your exterior caulking to make sure that is not the source of water infiltration. Also check your flashing.

If the blistering continues, the problem may be moisture escaping through your walls.  You may want to consider installing exhaust fans/vents if the blistering has occurred on a gable, though the solution could be as simple as adjusting the humidity on your thermostat (especially during winter months).

After addressing the source of the moisture, you may find that the blisters will go down and adhere to the substrate...your chances are better if you used a latex paint. If the blisters do not adhere, you’ll want to scrape and sand the areas, then prime and repaint with a quality exterior paint.

 

If your paint has blistered and you cannot determine the cause, call us today for a free consultation. We'll be glad to look at the problem and advise you regarding the proper course of action.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beach Painting Contractors

info@beachpainting.com

 

Paint Problems - Mildew

Paint Problems - Mildew

 

 

photo: mildew on cedar shakes

On the Outer Banks, mildew is simply a fact of life. Heavily wooded areas (such as Southern Shores or Kitty Hawk) block the sunlight and the frequently damp air creates a perfect environment for mildew.

Mildew is actually fungal growth (usually black or gray). Walls with northern exposure and the underside of eaves are particularly prone to mildew.

Other causes of mildew include the use of low quality paint, failure to prime bare wood before painting, painting over a substrate on which mildew has not been removed, and applying paint in a very thin coat.

At Beach Painting, we use the highest quality paints available (all of which are mildew resistant). We spot prime bare wood before painting. We always chemically treat and wash substrates before applying paint and we apply the paint to achieve the highest possible dry film thickness.

If you encounter mildew, you can test by applying a few drops of household bleach to the area and then rinsing. If the discoloration disappears, it is probably mildew. It can be removed by taking a scrub brush and a diluted bleach solution (three parts water, one part bleach) to the area. Always wear rubber gloves and eye protection when doing this. Rinse the area thoroughly and apply primer to any bare wood before touching up with a high quality exterior paint.

The best overall solution is to incorporate the power washing of your home's exterior into your annual Fall or Spring maintenance. Call us today for a free estimate!

  

Prime Considerations

Selecting the Right Primer

 

If you’ve decided to tackle a painting project and you go to your local paint store, you may be surprised to learn how many different primers are available. A primer is used under a finish coat to provide adhesion to the substrate and seal any stains that may come through the finish coat. This is a crucial step in the painting process. 

           


Photo: Courtesy of Sherwin Williams

If you are painting pressure-treated bare wood outside, your best bet is an exterior acrylic primer. Since these are water-based, they dry quickly and clean up easily with soap and water. Most often used on hand rails and deck bands, this type of wood is the most difficult to keep paint on because it is smooth and impregnated with chemical preservatives. If the wood is not kiln dried after the chemical treatment, you should not paint for at least six months.

Acrylic primer is recommended for siding products. Some siding (LP “Smart Side,” for example) are already factory-primed, which allows you to paint directly without a dedicated primer.   

Cedar requires a product that will block the tannins from coming through the finish paint and a good slow drying oil is best for this. Cedar is used primarily because of the high tannin content, which allows the wood to last longer than most others. The tannins are oils in the wood that will eventually seep through most acrylics leaving a stain. Most wood siding on the Outer Banks is cedar, either shakes or lap siding and is subject to this leaching. The tannin blocking oil products generally take up to 48 hours to dry and clean up with mineral spirits.  

If you have rusty screws or nails, you will need a rust-inhibiting primer. All rust scale should be removed before priming. The idea is to build up a high mil thickness to block the stain from coming through. Once the  nail begins to rust inside the wood, the rust will continue to leach out and, unfortunately, become a matter of routine annual maintenance...as any painting contractor on the OBX will tell you.

Interior primers are used for everything from new drywall to wood trim to hiding water stains. For new smooth drywall, latex “surfacing primers” are best. These products are thick and meant to be sanded before the final coats are applied. The application amounts to a skim coat of drywall and is very effective in hiding seams, which are frequently noticeably after the drywall has been finished.

On textured drywall surfaces, inexpensive latex primers can be used as an alternative to the pricier flat latex finishes. There is no need for a thicker surfacing product. These primers are also good for drywall repair areas. If your finish is eggshell, satin, or semi-gloss, primer is essential to ensure that a flat spot is not evident when the areas is touched up or repainted.

If you have experienced a water leak, an interior stain blocking oil product will be required. These products typically dry fast and may require multiple coats to completely block the stain effectively.

           

If you intend to paint wood paneling, cabinets, or trim, you will need to use an oil primer that both blocks stains and sticks to glossy surfaces. The surface should be lightly sanded with 220-grit sandpaper before priming to ensure that the primer has a good bite. Most often, primers for glossy surfaces dry quickly and clean up with mineral spirits or alcohol.

 

Whatever your situation, your local paint dealer should have a recommended system of primer and finish to fit the need. Depending on your finish colors, your paint store may even recommend tinting the primer to allow for better coverage on your finish coat. Make sure to describe the project completely and remember to select a good grade of product for maximum longevity.

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Paint Problems: Alligatoring

Alligatoring

If you see a pattern of cracking in your paint that resembles the scales of an alligator, this is what we in the painting business call…you guessed it “alligatoring.”

 

With recent advances in technology and the widespread use of latex paints, alligatoring is not as common as it was in the past.
 

Alligatoring is usually caused by the natural aging of oil based paints from temperature fluctuation. The constant expansion and contractor result in the loss of paint film elasticity. There are other causes as well. If a hard coating is applied over a softer (and more elastic) coating, the top coat can crack over time. That’s why it’s not recommended to apply an oil paint over a latex paint. Application of a topcoat while the primer or basecoat is still wet can also produce this effect.

OK, so how do I fix this problem?
 

Unfortunately, you need to remove the old paint. This usually involved scraping, sanding, and the use of a heat gun. You’ll want to take every possible precaution if you have reasonable suspicion that the paint contains lead. At a minimum, you’ll want a respirator.

After removing the old paint, you’ll need to clean the surface. If a glossy surface remains, it must be sanded dull.

Painting - Preparation is the Key

Benjamin Franklin once said, "By failing to prepare, you are preparing to fail." While this is applicable to many aspects of life, it is particularly apropos to our philosophy at Beach Painting Contractors. More often than not, poor preparation leads to a significantly shorter lifespan when it comes to repainting your house. Conversely, diligent preparation can extend the life of your paint job.

 

To protect your home, your painting contractor needs to account for the following:

1. Cleaning: Paint will not adhere to a dirty surface. It is imperative that a house be chemically treated to kill mildew and power washed to remove dirt and peeling paint.
2. Scraping/Sanding: After sufficient drying time, any remaining peeling paint needs to be addressed by scraping. If not, the original paint will continue to peel after the new paint is applied. It is also critical to "feather" sand the rough edges where paint has been removed to diminish the chances of further peeling.
3. Repairing Surface Flaws: Cracks and dings in your siding should be repaired with exterior spackle, caulk, or wood putty to prevent further deterioration and improve overall appearance.
4. Caulking: This is a critical step in preventing moisture infiltration. Any caulk that is cracked or separating from the surface must be removed. A high grade exterior acrylic latex or elastomeric caulk must be applied to these areas. Special attention should be applied at all window, door, and corner trim.
5. Rust Treatment: Rusty fasteners should be treated with a rust-inhibiting primer after removing loose rust scale.
6. Spot Priming: all bare wood should be primed with an exterior stain-blocking primer. All rust primer and repair areas should also be spot-primed before painting.
7. Wrapping: landscaping should be covered with drop cloths or plastic. Air conditioning units, decks, and any unpainted surfaces should also be covered with drop cloths. Window and door openings should be covered with plastic prior to spraying. Cardboard shields are typically used along the roof line when painting fascia boards.

One major distinction between a reputable painting contractor and a less-than-reputable one is the amount of preparation that is included in a painting proposal. My experience is that 40-50% of the labor required in an exterior painting project is the prep work described above. If the house exterior hasn't been routinely maintained, the percentage of prep work will be higher.  

 

If you are collecting quotes for a project and find one of your bidders is significantly less than the others, one reason may be that he has not included the prep work required for a quality paint job. All too often, this leads to paint failure within 2-3 years.

The old adage that we get what we pay for rings true, especially when it comes to painting preparation.

 

Give us a call at 800.663.4944 to request an estimate or visit our website to learn more about Beach Painting.

When Is It Time To Replace My Siding?

Americans have clad their homes with siding since colonial times. Siding affects the appearance of your home as well as the energy efficiency. It’s one of the most important architectural systems on your home. 

So, how do I know when it’s time to replace my siding?

Most types of siding are durable and should last a long time, but if you see evidence of fungus and wood rot, separated seams, warped or split boards, missing shakes, or you find yourself painting the exterior of your home every three to four years…it could be time to replace your siding.

What types of siding are available?

Wood siding was really the only option available until the 1920’s. Asbestos siding and asphalt siding became popular alternatives to wood until the advent of aluminum and steel siding in the 1940’s. These systems all had drawbacks and eventually fell out of favor with homeowners.

Vinyl siding and fiber cement board first became available in the 1950’s and gained immense popularity in the decades that followed. Significant technological improvements have made these systems the most commonly used siding in new construction. Composite (or engineered) wood siding has also become popular in recent decades.

Which type of siding is best for me?

Every siding system has advantages and drawbacks. It’s important to realize the installation and maintenance costs before you commit.

Wood

In my opinion cedar siding looks the best. Whether you install clapboards, panels, or shakes, you will need to protect the wood from the elements and from insects. You’ll likely have to repaint the cedar every 4-5 years. If you choose to go with a more natural look (i.e. clear sealer or semi-transparent stain) you’ll still need recoat the surface according to the severity of the environment you live in. If properly maintained, wood siding (cedar, pine, spruce) should last at least 20 years.

Vinyl

Vinyl siding is the least expensive to install. It doesn’t peel or corrode, which makes it very popular. Most vinyl siding manufacturers also offer insulated panels, making them a good choice to the energy-efficient homeowner.

However, vinyl siding is less aesthetically pleasing than other types of siding, and its color will fade over time. Even if installed properly, it doesn’t seem to hold up well on the OBX.

Fiber Cement Board (Hardie Plank)

Fiber cement board is relatively low maintenance and looks nicer than vinyl siding. It’s available in a number of profiles. From a distance it looks like wood. It’s fire resistant and is not prone to insect damage.

It doesn’t require painting as often as wood, but the boards are heavier, which means they come in shorter lengths and are more difficult to install. Over time, fiber cement boards have a tendency to crack. They also have a tendency to wick up water if installed adjacent to a driveway or deck where water can pool.

Composite or Engineered Wood

Composite wood siding is made with wood fibers/chips and epoxy resin. It is impervious to moisture and insect damage. It looks nicer than vinyl siding. It’s also much easier to install and less expensive than fiber cement boards. It appears to be the most durable siding option available today and has become increasingly popular on the OBX over the last few years.

Installation practices

Regardless of which siding system you choose, the siding must be properly installed. After removing your old siding, your contractor should check everything visible before installing the new siding. Plywood sheathing should be checked for rot and insect damage.

In most cases, house wrap should be replaced. We prefer to use 30-lb asphalt felt paper rather than polypropylene fiber. It is more durable and has no chemically adverse reactions to different types of wood or metal.

Flashing should also be inspected. During the building boom on the OBX, there were a lot of slipshod construction practices. Step flashing and Z flashing were often times improperly installed and sometimes omitted completely. This is a huge factor in the amount of wood rot we are now finding all over the OBX. The correct type of flashing with compatible fasteners and back caulk is a crucial step. Any roof lines that terminate into the siding MUST be properly flashed, as well as all sills, decks, and decorative trim pieces (i.e. “beauty bands”).

Windows should also be sealed with window tape prior to installing the siding. It’s an inexpensive step that is often overlooked. The house will also need to be caulked at every joint and every trim piece. A high-performance exterior acrylic latex caulk will outlast most paint jobs.  Cheaper latex caulks are less resistant to UV exposure and will yellow and crack.

As with anything in life, you get what you pay for. Take your time and do your homework before committing to a major home improvement project. Don’t hesitate to ask questions. We are more than happy to give a free estimate and consultation on your siding replacement. Find out why Beach Painting Contractors is becoming the preferred siding contractor on the OBX. 
 

800.663.4944

www.beachpainting.com

info@beachpainting.com


Serving the OBX Since 1995

 

Choosing the Right Paint Sheen

When it’s time to paint, color is often the first consideration of many homeowners, but selecting the right sheen has important aesthetic and functional ramifications.

What is Sheen?

Sheen refers to the smoothness and the amount of light reflected by a coating. Technically speaking, it is largely influenced by the ratio of paint-resin (binder) to pigment. The more binder a coating contains, the smoother the surface and the more light reflectance. Conversely, less binder leads to a rougher surface and less light reflectance. A high-gloss paint has relatively more binder than a flat paint.

From an aesthetic standpoint, paint sheen can either add or detract from the visual characteristics of the painted item. From a durability standpoint, selecting the right sheen for the job can extend the life of the paint job.

Flat

A flat sheen is more porous and reflects less light. Because it reflects less light it is better at hiding imperfections in drywall. On the other hand, less binder means less durability. It will scuff more easily than a higher gloss paint, though it touches up nicely. It is a popular choice for bedrooms, dining rooms, and living rooms.

Eggshell

Eggshell offers slightly less reflectance than satin, but is more durable than flat. It is an ideal choice for walls in high traffic areas.   

Satin

Satin sheen has a slightly higher reflectance value than eggshell. It provides an elegant appeal with the right light/color combinations and is more durable than flat paint. Typically, it will be used on walls (or trim) in high traffic areas.

Photo: trim is often painted with a higher sheen than the adjacent wall/ceiling surfaces

Semi-Gloss

Semi-gloss offers good stain resistance and is easy to clean. Because of its light reflectance properties, it is popular for millwork and trim. Because of its durability it is often used in bathrooms and kitchens.

Gloss

Gloss is the toughest and most reflective. It is ideal for cabinets, millwork, and trim. However, it tends to draw attention to imperfections.

Mixing Sheens

Most paint products offer three or four levels of sheen which will allow you or your painting contractor to create the perfect look for your room or for the exterior of your house. If a particular manufacturer’s sheen options don’t work perfectly for you, you can always mix two different sheens to get an in-between finish. When touching up a blemish, you can also reduce the sheen by thinning the paint.